DISTANT PLACES
Travel tips for destinations far from the Hanseatic City of Bremen
Emden in East Frisia
Where East Frisians make jokes and serious art thrives
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Walking path or popular cycling route: part of the Wall Promenades
The extensive green spaces and numerous waterways make strolls through the city truly delightful, provided you know which paths to take - especially to avoid traffic. However, those expecting a wealth of architectural highlights will be disappointed. The blame lies with the bombing raids in the final years of the war, which reduced 90% of the city center and 80% of Emden as a whole to rubble. Structures like the New Church, built in Baroque style and completed in 1648 after five years of construction, were rebuilt from the ground up after their destruction but only partially resemble the original design.
View of the New Church from Falderndelft; the building to the left is Gödenser Haus, erected in 1551. It once served as a barracks for the Brandenburg Navy, a prison, courthouse, and customs office. Today, it provides students with housing
The town hall, built between 1574 and 1576 by an Antwerp city architect with influences from his hometown, was reconstructed in 1962 but not faithfully to its original design - only certain stylistic elements were incorporated. The town hall once housed the city’s armory, which stored weapons and protective gear for the citizen militias. As their relevance faded, so did the armory’s importance, though its collection was expanded in later years. Today, parts of this impressive collection - both in quantity and quality - can be admired at the East Frisian State Museum in a wing of the town hall. The permanent exhibition primarily showcases objects from the 16th and 17th centuries.
Emden Town Hall on Ratsdelft; behind the passageway lies the State Museum
Not particularly noteworthy due to its distance, but certainly worth listening to, is the carillon in the tower of the town hall. The cast work with 23 bells was donated by Brahms - not that one, but Emden citizen Bernhard Brahms. As a survivor of the air raids of ’44, he was likely overwhelmed by gratitude 56 years later at being able to experience the turn of the millennium. Thank you for this beautiful gift in G major, crafted in a bell foundry in the Netherlands. Fittingly, the largest bell bears the Latin inscription “To the joy of citizens and guests.”
A glimpse into Emden’s architectural past
f passing by Pelzerstraße, take a moment to admire the Pelzer houses. The one on the left with house number 11 dates back to around 1570/80 and is likely one of the oldest preserved buildings in this East Frisian city. Naturally, renovations and restorations over time have altered its appearance, but it remains a sight to behold - offering a glimpse into what Emden by the Ems might have looked like in past eras, with narrow alleys and rough cobblestone streets.
Excursions
As previously mentioned, Emden is not the primary dream destination for North Sea vacationers, but its location makes it ideal for trips in many directions.
A beautifully restored windmill in the Larrelt district, built in 1732 and owned by the city since 1978
For those feeling up to it, a cycling excursion is recommended - perhaps along the “Lower Saxon Windmill Route” or directly along the Ems dike, passing through herds of sheep that compact the dike and keep the grass short. Treat yourself: rent an e-bike from a local shop; you’ll travel farther with ease.
Cycling trip to the Ems with sheep herds on the dike. In the background, a RoRo ship leaves the harbor
A visit is worthwhile to the nearby town of Norden, with its tea museum, charming pedestrian zone, and yes - windmills. Somewhat isolated is the district of Norddeich, directly on the North Sea coast, known to many vacationers only as the ferry port to the islands of Juist and Norderney. Since the train stops right next to the dock and the massive parking lots for island visitors almost directly border the ferry terminal, you’ll barely notice Norddeich as a town. Nevertheless, Norden and Norddeich are absolutely worth visiting - and dining at the fish restaurant in the harbor is highly recommended. Perhaps you’ll join a mudflat hike, walking across the exposed seabed of the protected Wadden Sea National Park to learn more about life there - whether in the water, on, or within the sand.
Out and about in the mudflats, but only with an official guide
For the ultimate North Sea experience with long sandy beaches and open sea for swimming, when the sun shines from a cloudless sky and temperatures rise, the islands are unmatched. However, their alternative offerings during bad weather are rather limited. From Emden station, you can comfortably travel directly to the water’s edge, purchase a round-trip ticket, and board for the approximately one-hour crossing to Norderney. The beach at the north side of the island is within a 20-minute walking distance from the harbor. Due to the tides, however, a short visit to the car-free island of Juist must be planned much more carefully.
View of the beach at the north side on Norderney
What in other contexts might not be good news - namely, LEER (in german it means empty) - looks no different in East Frisia, but here, LEER is also good. Once again, the train station serves as an excellent starting point, whether you arrive by rail or car, as it lies near the pedestrian zone. However, things only get truly interesting at the end of this zone when entering the picturesque old town. The headquarters of the tea trading house Bünting, founded in 1808, along with its adjacent private tea museum and the bronze sculpture “Teelke” (1991) by artist Karl-Ludwig Blöke, mark the transition.
Fancy a cup of tea?
Those who prefer not to explore the old town on their own can follow the metal signs embedded in the pavement reading “LEER Path,” which is indeed educational.
Picturesque row of houses in Rathausstraße
Either way, you’ll likely end up sooner or later in Rathausstraße, whose picturesque row of houses may be the most photographed motif in this East Frisian city - one that also occasionally serves as a backdrop for the ZDF crime series “Friesland,” such as at the museum harbor. Among other things, the 1714-built scales stand there, now housing a restaurant. From its terrace, you have a beautiful view of a tributary of the Leda, which continues further behind the historic steamship Prinz Heinrich. The path along the water is truly a lovely walking route that, by the way, also leads back to the train station.
Historical tugboats in the museum harbor
Infos
http://www.landesmuseum-emden.de
https://www.niedersaechsische-muehlenstrasse.de
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1. Rügen by the Baltic Sea
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2. Rügen by the Baltic Sea
Nordperd: hiking through the forest to the cliff
The mostly forested promontory - this is what the word Perd means in Slavic - is part of the Mönchgut Biosphere Reserve. And indeed, from the air, the area juts out like a green pointed triangle into the sea.
Along the beach to Thiessow and Klein Zicker
After a short museum visit, our path leads us through the sand of the Baltic Sea past the village of Lobbe to the end of the beach in Thiessow - a considerable distance for persistent hikers coming from Göhren, always with a salty breeze in their noses.
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3. Rügen by the Baltic Sea
Cycling from Göhren to Reddevitzer Höft
The farther you cycle along Reddevitzer Höft, the sparser the settlements become. Where no houses or trees obstruct the view, you can see the Rügischer Bodden with Having Bay on one side and Hagensche Wiek Bay on the other. This is especially true when you reach the 33-meter-high elevation at the end of the peninsula. From the cliff, you have a wide view across the water toward Vilm Island or the village of Gager with its small harbor.
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Seaside resort tour on foot or by bike
From the north beach in Göhren, the next seaside resort in the other direction is already within sight: Baabe. So you can simply stroll barefoot along the water or use the Amber Promenade as an equally direct route, though with a solid surface. Cyclists can also make good use of this and find it well-developed parallel to the promenade. A slightly bumpy and longer option is the combined cycling and hiking trail through the forest, connecting the two seaside resorts over 2.5 kilometers.
A bike trip form Baabe to Seedorf and to the seven megalithic tombs from the Stone Age near Lancken-Granitz
The charm of Seedorf lies primarily in its harbor: docks with moorings for many recreational boats along both shores of the inlet to Neuensiener See. Here, sailboats and motor yachts are safely anchored away from the sometimes rough seas of the Baltic Sea, yet their skippers can quickly reach it if needed.
A seabridge and spa architecture in Sellin
Long before reaching Sellin along the beach, you’ll spot the impressive 394-meter-long pier, which has a turbulent history dating back to the early 20th century.But Sellin has more to offer than just the magnificent structure right on the beach. The so-called "Stairway to Heaven" leads up many steps to the high bluff, connecting the pier with Wilhelmstraße promenade.
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Through the forest to Jagdschloss Granitz
It's about 5 kilometers from Sellin through forest paths up to Jagdschloss Granitz. If you're on foot, you can initially take the cliff path through rough terrain at your own risk; by bike, there are additional better-developed paths. All paths eventually converge and lead well-signposted to the hunting lodge and Binz. The castle is also located along the route of the Rasender Roland, about one kilometer downhill to the station. In the other direction, it's about 3 kilometers through the forest to Binz.
Art and more in Binz, the largest seaside resort on Rügen
If you arrive as a visitor from the sea side, on the one hand, the size of the place in general and the 1890-opened Kurhaus as the unmistakably largest and most impressive building in particular catch your eye. Even in the off-season, Binz is much livelier and busier than the places in its immediate vicinity. Historical houses in the style of spa architecture can also be found here, whether directly on the beach promenade or in the shopping streets of the town. And regardless of whether you arrive by ship or by bus, you are immediately in the midst of the action.
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From Binz to Sassnitz
Since 2007, a 250-meter-long suspension bridge has allowed pedestrians to quickly reach the city harbor from the city center - offering a wide view of the harbor and the Baltic Sea. If you use the suspension bridge, you will immediately encounter the most unusual ship in the harbor: the H.M.S. Otus. This 90-meter-long British submarine of the Oberon class, built in 1962, has been decommissioned and is now a walkable museum.
To the chalk cliffs with the 118-meter-high Königsstuhl in Jasmund National Park
From Göhren, Sellin, Bilz, or Sassnitz, you can also book a trip to the chalk cliffs with the ships of Adler-Reederei, offering a view from below of the relics from the Cretaceous period, which began approximately 145 million years ago and ended around 66 million years ago, instead of the panoramic view from above.
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7. Rügen by the Baltic Sea
By water to Lauterbach and Putbus
Sellin. The open Baltic Sea on one side, a lake, a bay, and a "shallow bay-like coastal water body" - the Bodden - on the other. This is where the ships of the White Fleet sail. From Lauterbach, a two-lane main road leads about two kilometers into the center of Putbus - getting lost on the green avenue is practically impossible. Thus, after the described walk, you first encounter the Circus. The model for the facility built between 1828 and ’45 was the Circus constructed a century earlier in the English spa town of Bath.
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8. Rügen by the Baltic Sea
Travel Information
Many hopefully helpful pieces of information for the described part of Rügen. Unfortunately, not all websites are available in English yet. Nevertheless, I am sure you will have a wonderful time on Germany's largest island. Take care.
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